TUNE M1 CONFIGURATOR:
EVERY OPTION, EXPLAINED

The M1 is the full camper. Pop-top, sleeping platform, side access panels, 440+ feet of T-track, awning doors, and mounting hardware. The M1L is the lighter, stripped-down shell. Fewer features, smaller footprint, lower price.

Inside the M1 you also pick a platform size. Mid-size for Tacoma, Ranger, Colorado, and the like. Full-size for Tundra, F-150, Ram, Silverado. Full-size gives you more floor space and a longer sleeping platform (60" × 78" vs. 60" × 72") at the cost of about 100 lbs (~500 lbs vs. ~400 lbs). The M1 vs. M1L comparison goes deeper on which one fits your use case.

All five canvas colors are included at no extra cost. Sand and Charcoal show up most often in build photos. Lighter colors (Sand, Steel Blue) reflect more heat, which matters in the desert Southwest or anywhere you'll be camping through hot summers.

Glass doors add roughly 30 lbs per panel and let a lot of natural light into the camper. The thing most people don't realize is that you can buy and swap them in yourself later. Aftermarket tempered glass runs about $750 per side, which is about $200 more per panel than ordering it at the factory, but you also end up with the original aluminum doors as a backup set for when you want something lighter and tougher.

If you're not sure, start with the standard aluminum, pocket the $1,100, and upgrade later if you decide you want the light. If you're sure you want glass, ordering from Tune saves roughly $400 total over going aftermarket.

The rear door is your main loading point. Same logic as the side doors applies: the tempered glass awning door can be added later for about $750 (~$200 more than at the factory) and the aluminum door becomes your spare.

Barn Doors vs. Awning

Barn doors swing out to both sides for the widest possible opening. Big upside is entry and exit, you can stand on the tailgate and step straight in. Downsides are tight campsites (the open doors take up space), windy conditions (they want to slam), and zero rain cover over the opening.

Awning doors (aluminum standard, tempered glass optional) flip up on a hinge to make a small canopy over the rear opening. That canopy is the whole point — you can have the back open in light rain without soaking everything inside. The tradeoff is a slightly harder entry since you duck under the door. Most owners take the weather protection.

The tinted glass insert window ($450) is a third path. It adds a window to your existing rear door without changing the door style at all. Good for rear visibility and a bit of natural light at the lowest possible price.

The cab access window connects the camper interior to the truck cab through the rear glass. Tune cuts a precise opening in the front wall during build. This cannot be added after delivery. Now-or-never decision.

I'd order the Window with Slider ($500). It gives you a pass-through for small items, a way to talk to whoever's up front, and useful cross-ventilation when you want airflow without opening doors. The Custom Drop-Down with Slider ($800) opens wider for actual gear pass-through and feels premium, but the basic slider covers most use cases.

You can absolutely camp without one. But if there's any chance you'll want cab access down the road, order it at build time. The walls are sealed once the camper ships.

SunBlocker is reflective material that cuts heat buildup, which matters if you camp in hot or sunny climates. Blackout stops light coming through the roof panels, which matters if you sleep poorly when the sky brightens at 5 a.m. The combined option ($800) gives you both.

Standard white FRP lets in more daylight, which most owners actually prefer. The camper feels brighter and more open during the day. For moderate climates and sleepers who don't mind a little dawn light, standard is fine.

Where I'd spend the $800 is in the Southwest, desert camping, or if you know you sleep light. None of these can be added later — it's yes or no at order time.

This is the easiest yes on the entire configurator. Tune cuts the roof and installs the fan before the camper ships. If anything ever leaks, that's their problem to fix. Retrofitting a roof vent means cutting a hole in your own roof, and a bad cut or a poorly sealed flange is the kind of mistake you only make once. Let the factory do it.

The 00-07500K ($650) is the community favorite. Remote control, motorized lid, 10-speed fan with both intake and exhaust modes. The 00-06200K is the same fan without the remote. The 00-04401M sits flatter, which matters if your garage clearance is tight.

This one's for everyone. Air circulation drives comfort, condensation management, and how well you sleep, even in mild weather.

The King Slide Extender ($200) is worth ordering from Tune if you're on a 5' bed truck. It's a mechanical slide that extends the sleeping platform to ~80", basically king-size. Tune installs the hardware during build, which is meaningfully cleaner than retrofitting. On a 6'+ bed you don't need it. (As mentioned in the FAQ, I'm 6' and went with this on my own build for the extra width with two sleepers.)

For the Hest mattress itself, the price is the same through Tune or direct from Hest. Two reasons to go direct: you might catch a 10% code or a bedding bundle, and if you don't love the mattress, returns through Hest are way easier than returns through Tune. I'd buy direct.

If you want to go a different direction entirely, custom-cut HD36-R foam from Foam Factory runs $80–$130 at 4" thick, and the Nemo Roamer and Exped MegaMat sit in the $200–$350 range. The mattress guide has the full comparison.

The most options on the configurator, the simplest recommendation: don't buy the power station from Tune. The Pecron E1500LFP routinely sells for ~$469 direct from Pecron (MSRP $1,299). Tune charges $950–$1,150 for the same exact unit. That's $500–$700 of pure markup, and a standalone 100–200Ah LiFePO4 battery ($200–$600) with a basic 12V system gives you more flexibility for less.

What I would order: Custom Wiring to Customer Battery ($150). Tune runs dedicated wires from the lights, fan, and heater prep to the front passenger corner, with T-track covers to hide everything. They add adapters that interface with whatever 12V system you bring later. You can absolutely DIY this, but $150 is cheap for letting the factory route the wires through the panels.

The battery guide covers standalone battery picks. The electrical guide walks through wiring your own 12V system from scratch.

Don't buy panels from Tune. Third-party flexible panels are cheaper and genuinely simple to install — they stick to the roof with adhesive and plug into the solar port. The only reason to eat Tune's markup is if you don't want to get on the roof yourself. A single 200W flexible panel from Renogy or EcoFlow runs $150–$250. Two panels (roughly Tune's dual 220W setup) come in at $300–$500 versus $1,750 through Tune. $1,000+ saved for two hours of straightforward work.

The Solar Port ($200), on the other hand, is a definite yes if you're planning solar at all. Tune routes wiring through the roof to a weatherproof port. That's another roof penetration you want the factory doing, and even if you're undecided about solar today, the port keeps the option open without drilling later.

The solar guide covers panel picks, sizing, and mounting.

This is the most expensive add-on on the configurator, and I'd skip it at order time. The Truma is the gold standard in camper heating — reliable, safe, quiet, factory-integrated, and the people who have it love it. But $3,600–$4,000 is a serious chunk of any build budget, and unlike the roof vent or cab window, you can add a Truma later. That buys you time to actually camp through a season and figure out what your real heating needs look like before committing $4,000.

In the meantime a Chinese diesel heater (Vevor, HCalory) runs $150–$300 and heats just fine. Plenty of M1 owners are still running them through year three or four. The heater guide and winter camping guide cover both paths.