Pre-Trip Checklist
Five to ten minutes before every trip, check the mounting hardware and latches. Most people skip this until the first time they feel the camper shift on a washboard road. The full pre-trip checklist.
- Mounting hardware. Check torque on all mounting bolts. Vibration loosens them over time, especially after off-road use.
- Pop-top latches. Verify all latches engage fully and the pop-top seals when closed.
- Door gaskets. Quick visual check that gaskets are seated properly and not folded or pinched.
- Awning door latches. Test that side and rear doors latch securely. If you've upgraded to Southco compression latches, check they're engaging fully.
- Battery charge. Confirm the house battery is charged. LiFePO4 batteries read 13.2–13.6V when full.
- Water system. If you carry water, check connections for leaks and confirm the tank is filled or drained as planned.
- Roof vent fan. Test all speeds. Check that the lid opens and closes fully.
- Lights. Turn on interior and exterior lights to confirm they work.
Post-Trip Care
What to do when you get home.
- Dry the interior. If you had condensation (you will in cold weather), wipe down crossbeams, walls, and any moist surfaces. Leave the pop-top open for an hour in dry weather to air out.
- Clean the T-track. Wipe dirt, sand, and debris from the channels, especially floor-level tracks that collect the most grit. A stiff brush or compressed air works well.
- Empty and dry the water system. Don't leave standing water in tanks or lines between trips. Drain completely to prevent mold and algae.
- Check for damage. Walk around the camper and look for scratches, dents, or damage from branches or trail debris. Touch up paint chips on the powder coat to prevent corrosion.
- Shake out bedding. Air out the mattress if it got damp. Don't store a damp mattress in a closed camper.
Cleaning
Exterior
- Wash with mild car wash soap and water. A soft sponge or microfiber cloth is all you need.
- Skip the pressure washer on seals, gaskets, and pop-top fabric. High pressure forces water into places it shouldn't go and wears seals out.
- Powder coat care. The aluminum panels are powder-coated, durable but not invincible. For light scratches, Tune Outdoor's touch-up paint matches the finish. For oxidation, a gentle aluminum polish restores shine.
- Tempered glass panels. Standard glass cleaner (Invisible Glass or similar) works. Avoid abrasive cleaners.
Interior
- Surfaces. Wipe down with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid harsh chemicals on the headliner fabric.
- T-track channels. Use a stiff-bristle brush to clear grit. WD-40 or dry PTFE lubricant helps T-slot hardware slide freely.
- Pop-top tent fabric. Spot-clean with mild soap and water. No bleach or harsh solvents. For mold or mildew, dilute vinegar (1:4 vinegar to water) works.
- Windows and mesh. Wipe glass with glass cleaner. Vacuum or brush mesh screens to clear dust.
Seals & Gaskets
The M1 uses gaskets and weatherstripping (not caulk), so there's no periodic re-caulking. However, gaskets wear over time and need inspection.
What to check
- Door gaskets. The rubber seals around the awning doors and rear hatch. Look for compression set (permanently flattened), cracking, or separation from the frame.
- Pop-top seal. The weatherstripping around the pop-top perimeter, the largest and most critical seal on the camper. Check for gaps, tears, or spots where the seal doesn't make consistent contact.
- Window seals. Inspect the seals around the tempered glass panels and the mesh window zippers.
When to replace
If a gasket is cracked, permanently compressed, or no longer making consistent contact, replace it. Contact Tune Outdoor; their replacement gaskets fit the M1's specific dimensions. Don't substitute generic weatherstripping without verifying the profile matches.
Gasket tip. A thin coat of 303 Aerospace Protectant or silicone-based rubber conditioner on gaskets twice a year keeps them supple and extends life, especially in hot/dry climates where rubber degrades faster.
Hardware & Mounting
Mounting bolts
The M1 mounts to your truck using bolts that attach to the bed rails. These can loosen from road vibration, especially after off-road driving. Check torque before every trip. If you notice any movement or play in the camper when you push on it, re-torque immediately.
T-track hardware
Periodically check all T-track mounted accessories (shelving, lights, racks) for looseness. The M6 hardware in the M1's native T-track can slowly loosen from vibration. Use thread-locking compound (blue Loctite) on hardware that shouldn't move: shelves, fridge mounts, heavy accessories. Skip it on hardware you want to reposition.
Hinges and latches
- Lubricate hinges on all doors (side awning, rear, pop-top) with dry PTFE lube or white lithium grease every 3–6 months.
- Southco C2-43-25 latches (if upgraded). Marine-grade and low-maintenance, but benefit from occasional PTFE spray on the cam mechanism.
- Pop-top struts. Check the gas struts annually. If the pop-top doesn't hold itself up firmly or feels sluggish, the struts probably need replacement.
Electrical System Care
Battery maintenance
- LiFePO4 batteries are low-maintenance. No watering, no equalization. Keep above 20% state of charge for longevity. Store at 50–60% charge if the camper sits unused for more than a month.
- Check terminals annually for corrosion or looseness. Clean with a wire brush if needed and apply dielectric grease.
- Cold weather. LiFePO4 won't charge below 32°F; the BMS blocks it. No damage, but solar can't charge until the battery warms up. Some batteries (Victron Smart, Battle Born with heater) have built-in heating pads. See the battery guide.
Wiring
- Inspect wiring runs annually for chafe points, especially where wires pass through bulkheads or near sharp edges.
- Check fuse block connections for corrosion or heat damage.
- If you have a DC-DC charger, verify the ground connection is solid and the charging voltage is correct (14.2–14.6V for LiFePO4).
Solar panels
- Clean with water and a soft cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners.
- Check mounting hardware (T-track bolts) for looseness after off-road trips.
- Inspect wiring and connectors at the panel-to-roof junction for weathering or corrosion.
Seasonal Prep
Spring (pre-season)
- Full exterior wash and inspection
- Check all seals and gaskets after winter storage
- Charge the battery fully and verify it holds charge
- Test all electrical systems (lights, fan, heater if equipped)
- Lubricate all hinges and latches
- Check tire pressure on your truck (loaded payload changes handling)
- Run the water system with clean water to flush any stale residue
Fall (pre-winter or pre-storage)
- Drain the water system completely: lines, tanks, pump
- Clean the interior thoroughly (no food crumbs attracting pests)
- Inspect and condition all gaskets with 303 Protectant or silicone conditioner
- If storing for winter: disconnect battery, store at 50–60% charge in a temperature-stable location
- If winter camping: review the winter camping guide for cold-weather prep
Summer considerations
- UV exposure degrades rubber seals and pop-top fabric faster — park in shade when you can, and apply 303 Protectant to gaskets before the hot season.
- A closed camper in direct sun can get hot enough to damage batteries and electronics. Crack a vent if leaving it parked.
- Check truck coolant levels; loaded payload generates more heat than an empty bed.
Storing the M1
On the truck
If leaving the M1 mounted on the truck during storage.
- Close the pop-top and secure all latches
- Disconnect the house battery or flip the main disconnect
- Fully dry the interior before sealing up. Wipe down condensation, dry the mattress and bedding, air out fabric surfaces. A dry, sealed camper resists mold and musty smells better than a damp, ventilated one (and keeps pests out at the same time).
- Cover the camper if storing outdoors long-term. UV and rain take a toll over months.
Off the truck
The M1 can be removed and stored on the Tune jack system.
- Store on a flat, level surface. Avoid slopes that stress the jack system.
- Verify the jacks are locked and stable before walking away
- Same prep: dry the interior thoroughly, disconnect the battery, then close everything up
- If outdoors, a tarp or cover over the pop-top area protects the tent fabric from UV
Pest prevention. Mice and insects love truck campers in storage. Close all openings, check door gaskets for gaps, and drop in peppermint-based deterrent pouches for extended storage.